Traveling through ancient Persia has been one of the most beautiful travel experiences ever. An impressive culture and architecture as well as extremely hospitable people make the trip an unforgettable experience.
Prejudices?
"Isn't there a war there?" "Isn't it dangerous?" "I wouldn't dare go to such an Islamic country."
The reaction of my fellow human beings when I told them about my intention to travel to Iran did not surprise me too much.
We live in a time of uncertainty and also ignorance. The news in the media tend to refer to negative content. In parts of our society, we no longer differentiate. We no longer question, uncritically accept news and generalize. Entire peoples, countries and religions are tainted with prejudice. The mood toward Islam and Muslims is tense. Negative individual reports add fuel to the fire and give political actors of all stripes a platform for their respective messages.
After my positive travel experiences with the people of eastern Anatolia, near the Iranian and Iraqi borders, my next trip should now take me through the Islamic Republic of Iran. What kind of people are they in ancient Persia, surrounded by neighboring countries like Iraq and Afghanistan?
Meetings
«Welcome to Iran, welcome to Esfahan»! sings a friendly looking man. He actually sings, takes me by the arm and places me in the middle of the gathered people under the 'Khaju Bridge' (Pol-e Chādschu / Kajoo Bridge), one of the landmarks of Isfahan.
The bridge is a popular meeting place to escape the heat, have company and exchange news. Many older men also sing songs and are rewarded with applause.
Immediately, I am approached in a friendly manner by several people. They are visibly pleased from the bottom of their hearts that I visit their country and their city and are very interested in my person and history.
Many Iranians would like to take a photo with me. When I ask them what will happen with all the pictures, they tell me that they will show them to their friends and family so that they can see that there are still people from the West who come to their country. They know that many people associate Iran and Islam rather negatively and are sometimes even afraid. From the conversations I sense how much it burdens them and makes them sad. As a guest, you are received all the more warmly for it.
Every day I have numerous conversations, I am spoken to affectionately, invited to eat, and I am allowed to make myself available for a photo or two. In front of mosques I am waved at and asked to go into the innermost part of the religious site and look at the magnificent architecture.
In the numerous parks of the cities, the locals, especially families with their children sit together until late in the evening and enjoy a picnic. I practically can't walk 20 meters without being invited to sit with them. Children come up to me and bring me small delicacies to try.
In the capital Tehran, a young artist, a painter, takes several days for me, drives me through her city and shows me the most beautiful parks and art galleries. She picks me up from my hotel and brings me back in the evening. We exchange stories about our different lives. Laugh together. Enjoying the moment. She reads me poems by Saadi and Hafiz, lets me listen to traditional Persian music and taste local dishes.
I am practically carried on my hands through the country. It seems almost surreal, like a fairy tale from the Thousand and One Nights. Or am I just a bit jaded and no longer know how to deal with so much cordiality?
The Islamic Republic
Since the Islamic Revolution in 1979, when the last Shah, Reza Pahlavi, fled the country and was succeeded by revolutionary leader Ayatollah Khomeini as head of state, the country has been run as an Islamic state of God. Sharia law, roughly understood as a guide to the duties and prohibitions of each individual, is sometimes strictly controlled.
One situation in particular has stayed with me. I am on top of Borj-e Milad, a television tower and, at 435 meters, the tallest building in Tehran. At the top there is an observation deck, which offers an impressive view over the city. In front of me two women are walking, beautifully dressed, full hair, the headscarf practically only worn as a high scarf up to the back of the head. Then a policeman comes up to them, speaks a curt sentence and points to their heads. Immediately they pull their headscarves higher over their hair, to the middle of the parting. The public admonishment is visibly uncomfortable for them.
The magic of the Orient
When I thought of Iran before my trip, I also always had an image of Persia in my mind. The Silk Road. Bazaars. Spices. A sea of colors and smells. Oriental sounding music and many other clichés.
Nowadays, in the rapidly advancing and increasingly digitalized world, which does not stop at Iran, can one still perceive and experience such an atmosphere, such a feeling?
Yes, at least for me it was and is possible.
It is, as usual, a very warm evening. I walk across the King's Square, Meidan-e Emam/Naqsh-e Jahan, in Esfahan. The monumental buildings that give the square its rectangular shape, the mosque, the arcades with the bazaar - they are all beautifully illuminated. I don't know where to look first. Everywhere people are gathering, families, friends. They are having a picnic together, enjoying the company and the unique atmosphere of the square. My nose picks up the most diverse and fragrant scents of the food being prepared. From the loudspeakers sounds the muezzin, the call to prayer. People look at me curiously and lovingly, hand me food. I get goose bumps. This is how I imagined the Orient. I have indeed arrived in the Orient.
Future uncertain
Iran is a largely isolated country and is currently under increased sanctions, especially by the USA. As a photographer, I only want to document and not get involved in a political discussion. I would like to show impressions from everyday life. I wish that we differentiate between the people and the government, that we do not forget that the majority of the people want to live in peace with us.
The people in Iran, whom I was allowed to meet, were full of openness, interest and cordiality. They are very interested in us and our culture and want an exchange free of prejudices. One can only wish them all the best.
Places visited:
Shiraz, Yazd, Esfahan, Tehran
Travel information Iran
Take enough cash (Euro) with you and exchange it at the airport or in hotels. It is not possible to withdraw further money in Iran. Credit cards cannot be used.
Partly you can just talk in English. Some people even know some German. However, people often speak only Persian, called Farsi.
The dress code should be followed in any case. I was wearing long pants and discreet shirts. Women wear a headscarf.
It is best to stay away from gatherings and demonstrations. I accidentally got into a demonstration of teachers in Tehran and was immediately observed critically by police officers, also because of my camera. People present immediately recognized the situation and led me out of the crowd.
Generally, one does not automatically shake hands with women when greeting them, as this is not necessarily in accordance with Sharia law and can lead to embarrassing situations. One waits to see if they decide to shake hands with a man. However, most women shook hands with me right away and I was often approached curiously.
Leave prejudices at home and let's go.
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